convert manual to automatic jeep wrangler

convert manual to automatic jeep wrangler

For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Is it possible to convert manual transmission to automatic. Does anyone have experience with the conversion? In the old days it was a piece of cake to change one over. Today with all of the electronics involved it will probably be a nightmare. In the old days it was a piece of cake to change one over. Today with all of the electronics involved it will probably be a nightmare.It makes more sense to trade this one and get an automatic transmission. It makes more sense to trade this one and get an automatic transmission.I was looking at a manual, but since I was going to use my Jeep as a DD also, I went with the 8 spd. auto. So far I'm quite impressed with the way the transmission handles it's duties. Upgrade to S. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Looking for a parts list and possible directions. From articles I've read this doesn't sound too difficult. But wanted to discuss with someone whos done this already. It might be nice to have a thread to refer people to. Just a thought. Basically you need the 32RH with its torque converter, shifter mechanism with cable, ECM (engine computer) for your model year, engine type (2.5 or 4.0), and programmed for the automatic. Automatic transmission mount and bracket is different too. Flex plate to replace the flywheel on the engine. Low-profile bolts made to bolt the torque converter to the flex plate. Transmission cooler lines for your model year, they vary in routing between model years so they're not all the same. This is not a difficult conversion, in fact it is actually very straight forward. Likely the most difficult part will just be rounding up all the parts needed.http://yeagersadc.com/files/bushnell-speed-gun-manual.xml

• convert manual to automatic jeep wrangler, how to convert manual transmission to automatic in jeep wrangler, 1.0, convert manual to automatic jeep wrangler, how to convert manual transmission to automatic in jeep wrangler.

Hey just noticed you're in Houma, My son's a commercial diver and is actually working offshore there now. He still has the motor, auto tranny (that he claims was rebuilt 5-10,000 miles ago), and the 231 t-case with new bearings, seals, and a slip yoke eliminator that was all installed at the same time the tranny was rebuilt. Says he has the radiator, too. He kept the ECM for his rig, and unfortunately, just threw out everything else associated with the old drivetrain yesterday (!!!). As in, it was picked up, and is in a landfill by now. Bummer. I'm going to talk with the guy tomorrow, as I've considered doing the swap to an automatic, and this seems like a helluva start. Even if I don't do it right away, it'd be worth having these items if they're what he says they are. Would appreciate any input. Thank you! BTW, if the guy's rig is anything at all, I'll try and get some pics of it. Hell, maybe even get him to join the ranks of the forum! I grew up all my life driving nothing but manual transmissions, but I definitely prefer the TJ in an automatic. The 32RH is a great transmission as well. The 42RLE as you know has that damn pesky.69 overdrive gear which is annoying as hell (though much better when you re-gear). Definitely tell this guy about the forum! I respect that he said he was giving this fella first shot at the parts, as he had scheduled a time to look at 'em before I did. I had some other stuff that had to be taken care of, such as a dump-run. While there, a TJ showed up towing a trailer full of old lumber. I told him about the forum, and we discussed it for a bit. Hope he checks it out. Seemed like a nice fella, and definitely had a nice ride. Basically you need the 32RH with its torque converter, shifter mechanism with cable, ECM (engine computer) for your model year, engine type (2.5 or 4.0), and programmed for the automatic. Automatic transmission mount and bracket is different too. Flex plate to replace the flywheel on the engine.http://www.marjoleintje.nl/include/userfiles/bushnell-owners-manual.xml

Low-profile bolts made to bolt the torque converter to the flex plate. Transmission cooler lines for your model year, they vary in routing between model years so they're not all the same. This is not a difficult conversion, in fact it is actually very straight forward. Likely the most difficult part will just be rounding up all the parts needed. Hey just noticed you're in Houma, My son's a commercial diver and is actually working offshore there now.I hear you are an expert in converting a manual transmission to an automatic and I am desperate for your help. First of all, thank you for reading my reply. I've been struggling with this project for some time now and really need some expert advice. I'll try to explain the situation in detail. I purchased a 2000 Sahara Auto that had a bad engine (rod knock I believe). I then purchased an engine from another Jeep guy here in Colorado (the engine I purchased had a manual transmission attached). I've done quite some work to the engine (head gasket, rear main seal, oil pain gakset, etc.). I dropped the engine in the Jeep and go to mate it to the bell housing. I made a VERY rookie mistake and drew them together with the mounting bolts - and you guessed it.damaged the trans pump (torque converter was not properly seated I believe). Reason I knew something was wrong was when I went to turn the crank, it was completely locked up. Ended up pulling the trans and took it to a nearby shop. I filled the torque converter with new ATF-4 fluid and made sure it was seated correctly this time. I get the trans right up to the engine, but it's not seating as flush as it should, even with some force. I ended up installing the lower left bolt, tested the crank, and it moved, so I continued with the other bolts. I installed all the bolts (obviously not torque-spec tight), but I noticed the lower right bolt was loose. So I began tightening.(you think i'd learn my lesson the first time).

As I start tightening, the bolt gets tight sooner than it should. I go to test the crank and.locked up! Yup, pump damaged again. With all that said, I was told that I may need to remove the pilot bearing and collar from the new engine (as it had a manual transmission attached to it and mine is automatic). I really do not want to damage anything else moving forward so I could really use your help. Should I proceed removing the pilot bearing and collar. Then do I need to purchase the extended output shaft seal as well. Thank you in advance for your assistance. This project has been a bit of a struggle, but i've certainly learned a lot!! I hear you are an expert in converting a manual transmission to an automatic and I am desperate for your help. First of all, thank you for reading my reply. I've been struggling with this project for some time now and really need some expert advice. I'll try to explain the situation in detail. I purchased a 2000 Sahara Auto that had a bad engine (rod knock I believe). I then purchased an engine from another Jeep guy here in Colorado (the engine I purchased had a manual transmission attached). I've done quite some work to the engine (head gasket, rear main seal, oil pain gakset, etc.). I dropped the engine in the Jeep and go to mate it to the bell housing. I made a VERY rookie mistake and drew them together with the mounting bolts - and you guessed it.damaged the trans pump (torque converter was not properly seated I believe). Reason I knew something was wrong was when I went to turn the crank, it was completely locked up. Ended up pulling the trans and took it to a nearby shop. I filled the torque converter with new ATF-4 fluid and made sure it was seated correctly this time. I get the trans right up to the engine, but it's not seating as flush as it should, even with some force. I ended up installing the lower left bolt, tested the crank, and it moved, so I continued with the other bolts.

I installed all the bolts (obviously not torque-spec tight), but I noticed the lower right bolt was loose. So I began tightening.(you think i'd learn my lesson the first time). As I start tightening, the bolt gets tight sooner than it should. I go to test the crank and.locked up! Yup, pump damaged again. With all that said, I was told that I may need to remove the pilot bearing and collar from the new engine (as it had a manual transmission attached to it and mine is automatic). I really do not want to damage anything else moving forward so I could really use your help. Should I proceed removing the pilot bearing and collar. Then do I need to purchase the extended output shaft seal as well. Thank you in advance for your assistance. This project has been a bit of a struggle, but i've certainly learned a lot!!Sorry for the confusion, I typed this up fast! I just got home will have to look at your post more closely tomorrow when I get a few minutes.I just got home will have to look at your post more closely tomorrow when I get a few minutes.If measure the snout on the torque converter, you will discover that it will pilot perfectly in the end of the crank once the other bits are out of the way. Second thing- Never, under any circumstances use the bellhousing bolts to draw up the trans to the block. If it will go, you can push the trans home by hand when it is lined up correctly. If you can't push it home by hand, then no amount of pressure will make it go, more pressure just fucks up more crap. Cut the heads off and screw them into the block. They will extend through the holes in the bellhousing and assist you with lining everything up correctly. Extended alignment pins if you will. If measure the snout on the torque converter, you will discover that it will pilot perfectly in the end of the crank once the other bits are out of the way. Second thing- Never, under any circumstances use the bellhousing bolts to draw up the trans to the block.

If it will go, you can push the trans home by hand when it is lined up correctly. If you can't push it home by hand, then no amount of pressure will make it go, more pressure just fucks up more crap. Cut the heads off and screw them into the block. They will extend through the holes in the bellhousing and assist you with lining everything up correctly. Extended alignment pins if you will.Now after I remove the pilot bearing and adapter bushing, am I good to go. Or are there any other modifications I need to do. What about the extended output shaft seal. Thank you again! If you have a drill bit and a small cold chisel it can be done carefully Now after I remove the pilot bearing and adapter bushing, am I good to go. Or are there any other modifications I need to do. What about the extended output shaft seal. Thank you again!The manual 231 has a shorter input shaft that will not reach the seal in the back of the 32RH so the extender is used to solve that problem. Yes and since apparently I was not very clear, the hole in the end of the crankshaft is the exact correct size for the pilot on the end of the torque converter in the 32RH. If you run the 4.0 with the AX-15, NV3550, or the NSG 370, an adapter bushing to carry the pilot bearing will need to be installed WITH the pilot bearing. If you run a 4.0 with the later 42RLE, a much smaller bushing gets installed to adapt the pilot diameter of the 42RLE converter since it is smaller than the 32RH converter and it is not a bearing, just a bushing to compensate for the difference in diameters of the pilot on the two converters. If you have a drill bit and a small cold chisel it can be done carefullyI have found them to be messy, somewhat ineffective, and not prone to high levels of success. They include, bread, wet paper towels, and grease along with very snug fitting dowels to fit the hole in the bushing.

The factor that predicts all of the results to one degree or another is how far the adapter bushing has been beat into the end of the crankshaft. If it has been beat all the way in until it makes contact, the only reliable methods involve drilling and or welding. I have a good pilot bearing puller but if the little fingers can't get behind the bushing due to it being against the end of the crank, it is useless. I have had to drill and tap several and build a puller.Tightening it with the ratchet wrench tightens it against the inside the bushing for a friction fit. Tightening it with the ratchet wrench tightens it against the inside the bushing for a friction fit.I think i'll grab that puller tonight and give it a shot. Weird question (again i'm new to Jeeps) but I do have the 231 T-case with the 32RH obviously. So does that mean the extended seal is already installed. Considering the trans was already bolted to this t-case, i'm assuming everything is good to go there. My plan is to simply remove the bearing and bushing, and re-install. I really want to avoid any issues. I labeled the bearing and bushing and just want to make sure I have it right, as to what needs to be removed. Thanks again and sorry for the re-clarification. Yes you'll need the extended output shaft seal for your 32RH which can be found at Removing the old seal is easy, it easily pulls out. Seating the extended seal requires a BFH (BIG effing hammer) and something like a piece of scrap aluminum to place between the seal and the BFH to prevent damaging the seal while seating it. It took me a good minute or two with the BFH to get it fully seated, mine was a very tight fit. I started Jeep Wrangler TJ Forum to serve as a resource for TJ owners around the world. You'll find everyone here to be friendly, and most importantly, drama free! This forum is in no way associated with Jeep or FCA US LLC.

Please note although we have this listed as a 1997-2002 Transmission conversion in order to do this on any other year besides 2000 we will need to source the correct year harness and ECM (ECM is not picture but is included) If you do not have a commercial address we can ship the converison to the nearest shipping terminal to your zip code as well. Often time local auto parts stores and fastenals will allow you to ship to them as well, just contact them. To start viewing messages,If you look at the bottom of our BOM, you'll see all the parts required. dhThanks for your help. I'm reading everything I can but don't have any experience with autos on the trail.:-)If you look at the bottom of our BOM, you'll see all the parts required. dh One of the things I know that has been recomended to others is to use the old tranny cooler for a power steering cooler.One of the things I know that has been recomended to others is to use the old tranny cooler for a power steering cooler. Does the kit include new lines along with the tranny cooler.But am also wondering about the pedal(s), would I just remove the clutch pedal and all the components with it. Is there a list of parts for the shiter and harness to make the dash indicator work (or is that the extra wire you mentioned above) I am getting my head wrapped around doing a 6.1 swap this winter so I want to start gather parts and knowledge. I am right down the road from you in Wixom so I'll prolly swing by the shop there in the near future. ThanksThanks for your help. I'm reading everything I can but don't have any experience with autos on the trail.:-) On steep, long hills breaks are also required to prevent acceleration. I have the Rubicon 4:1 transfer case and the breaking is considerable but I haven't owned a manual Jeep since my trusty '74 CJ5 so I'm not sure how the downhill creep of the Hemi and the 545rfe compares to the creep of the Hemi or the 3.8 with a manual or with a transfer case with the standard 2.

72:1 4 lo reduction. As a side note, on the highway, if you have the cruise control set and descend a steep hill the transmission will downshift and provide engine breaking if required. I was descending a 9% grade in western MD when it occurred and it also ocurred on a long 6% grade. JPKI have a Manual transmission needs to be converted to Auto. I have all the parts collected except one THE CONSOLE. Do i need an entire console to replace which is a very expensive item. By looking at it I think I only need to replace the Black Plastic center console in the middle. Can someone please confirm. And if the above is correct I can not find a part number for Auto center console ?You get it all I think, but it's cheap stuff. I did this swap on my personal JK, but did no HEMI. Just made it so the wife could drive it.Why do i need a entire center console to replace. Cant i just replace the center console for auto instead of hemi. By looking at it the rest of the center console is exactly the same manual and auto just the center console piece is differentThey look to be the same, but the shifter cover is slightly different and they aren't interchangeable. When I did the Hemi swap last year, I found a shifter in a boneyard, but had to purchase the console from Mopar. The console wasn't too pricey as its just a shell. The wiring for the shifter (lights and dash indicator) are already in the factory JK harness under the console. When you connect the wiring, the AEV computer activates the dash indicator (plug and play). You can leave the clutch pedal in place. I removed the spring so it rests up against the bottom of the dash. I plan on removing the pedal because it does tend to rattle a bit. I don't remember if it was from Mopar, or AEV. Truck freight and oversize charges still apply unless otherwise noted, and can only be shipped to the lower 48 States. Rough Country items are not included in Free Shipping offers. Tires and Wheel and Tire Kits do not qualify for free shipping.

You'll see it on the item page as a Vendor Handling fee, and it will show up in the cart below the item(s) you're ordering. Automatic Transmissions Be sure to keep on top of your rig's maintenance or it just might inch too far in one direction and leave you with a more terrifying bill. It doesn't matter if you are relaxing at your friend's house, at the bar tossing a few back, or wheeling hard on the Rubicon. The question of auto vs.Unless this is your first Jeep or you are new to off-roading, you already know the basic pros and cons.It doesn't care what angle you are at. It has compression braking that automatics can't touch, and when you are driving it you feel connected to your Jeep. It is a more immersive driving experience. A slipping clutch, bad synchros, grinding bearings, or even loss of fluid will rarely if ever prevent you from getting home. You can pour engine oil into your manual tranny, pound wooden wedges between your clutch and flywheel, or just grind gears with no disengagement, and still have no troubles finding your way home. With an auto, you have to call a tow truck. It's really as simple as that. A manual transmission will (almost) always get you home. On that same note, if your battery dies for any reason an automatic transmission will need a jump start to get running, whereas a manual tranny just needs a push start. This will come with practice and will change depending on the obstacle. One suggestion we received from a deaf Jeeper is utilizing a programmable shift light. Not only will this be useful on the trail (when programmed properly), but in the case of our deaf friend the light would make things easier on-road. Rather than looking away from the road to check RPMs, the shift light makes driving that much safer. That said, I do own vehicles with automatic transmissions. My Ford F350 has an auto. Why? Because I don't want to work a clutch in stop-and-go traffic or worry about stalling when backing my boat up my snaking, inclined driveway.

I just like to feel connected to my Jeep, and I feel an automatic takes that away. When going up steep obstacles or deep sand be wary of the trans downshifting on you, resulting in unexpected acceleration. This can also leave you stuck by letting the tires spin and dig into the terrain. Granted, you can solve this by locking it into first or second. Don't forget to swap back to drive when you're done with the trail. Seamlessly transferring gears automatically depending the specific conditions and demands. The process is great but eliminates the choice of gearing from the driver, relying more on the transmission to make the choice. This relinquishing of power is subjective but could also lead to overheating if the Jeep is on a long, burdening trail. The overheating could then lead to gear slippage and serious damage if overlooked. This level of choice could be problematic and tiring if you’re on a difficult and long trail. Often times you’ll need a high level of finesse and control to maneuver slowly out of an obstacle. An improper shifting of gears could lead to a miscalculated level of movement that causes damage to the Jeep. In addition, manual transmissions have a set level of gearing with specific shifting points that might work well on the trail, but could be tiring on the road in everyday use. In an emergency maneuver, you have to worry about how quickly you can toggle the shifter into Neutral or Reverse and then whether or not the tranny will be sucking air or if it'll actually grab and save your bacon before you roll down a tall cliff and die. Sure, autos can shift faster than a manual, but we're talking off-roading in Jeeps here, not drag racing. Manual transmission Jeeps are on the decline these days, but imagine if a friend of yours in his manual TJ hurts himself to the point of being unable to drive. How are you and the rest of your buddies going to get his rig home if none of you can drive a stick shift.

You wouldn't leave your friend behind, and you wouldn't want to leave the TJ behind either. I once sunk a manual transmission into a swamp and it still worked for quite a while, although it was filled with water. An automatic instantly stops working when the oil becomes contaminated. On steep hills the oil pickup on many automatics will starve for oil, halting forward movement. As long as the gears and bearings get a splash of oil now and then, the manual transmission can run upside down all day long if need be. I'm sure you aren't going to purposely run upside down, but if you don't plan to get in potential rollover situations or do 90% of your driving on the street, perhaps an automatic is best for you. Just remember, you can't undo your decision when you are hanging upside down on the trail.? Allowing you to concentrate on the obstacles ahead, without the need to engage a clutch. In addition, automatic transmissions provide you with the ability to maintain a slow steady crawling speed. Just keep in mind your minimum speed necessary to cruise without using gas pedal input. Generally, this speed will be higher than what's needed to get a manual transmission moving. Nonetheless, automatic transmissions do have some pros and cons: This provides you with the ability to recover or get out of difficult situations easier. It is also a much simpler and straight forward drivetrain to maintain and repair. Nonetheless, manual transmissions also have some pros and cons: However, that transferring of gears comes at a price, which is heat build-up and eventually causes slippage if overly used. In addition, since it’s a more set ratio, it requires more attention when setting up, because it will have a dramatic effect on the shifting points, which could be tiring while on the trail.Ships fast and I have never been disappointed once the items arive. After not owning one for several years I got the bug again and decided to go buy one.

On a whim I saw this one and went to the dealership on the same day while my wife was at work and came home with it. She was a little bit surprised (mad) to see the Jeep in t. Tacoma, Tacoma SR, Tacoma SR-5, Toyota Racing Development (TRD), and Tacoma Limited are registered trademarks of Toyota Motor Corporation. ExtremeTerrain has no affiliation with Chrysler Group LLC.Throughout our website and catalogs these terms are used for identification purposes only. ExtremeTerrain provides Jeep and Toyota enthusiasts with the opportunity to buy the best Jeep Wrangler and Toyota Tacoma parts at one trustworthy location.Read our Privacy Policy. One reason is the 5 speed has overdrive and the 3 speed does not. Another reason is that for whatever reason, they prefer a stick. This package is for 6 cyl jeeps, if you have a 4 cyl automatic, you will need the kit NV3550 replacing a AX5, and we will need to add a flywheel to that kit. This trans is way-oversize for the application, and requires a body lift or extensive floor pan modification to fit. The usual incentive for this conversion is to get the truck style wide ratio, almost granny 1 st gear which can be useful for offroad use. On the other hand, this conversion will make a your jeep drive more like a truck. If this looks like the option or you, High impact does have available a package using the NV4500 replacing the AX15. Some 87-88 Jeeps will have the 231. Units that came with the 2.5L 4 cyl engine, and units that came behind the Peugeot 5spd (1987-88) will have 21 spline input gears. If you wish to retain this transfer case, you will need to replace the input gear with a 23 spline part (Listed below). The remainder of the NP231 Tcases came with a 23 spline input, and will bolt up directly to a NV3550 transmission. D300 will fit, however will be rotated Down approximately 9 deg: Tailhousing will need to have 6 holes re-drilled. If desired, a rotation adapter plate kit s available to make this a bolt together.

The NV3550 will fit under the stock body without a body lift. Only minor floor pan mods are needed where the shifter handle comes up (you will need to cut a hole and install a boot) Cherokee will require crossmember and transfer case shifter modification. Would a automatic out of jeep cherokee work(1998 jeep cherokee). Considering buying the tranfer case also. Is this tranny and transfer case durable enough. Would my old bell housing work. Very limited budget. I have a 92 jeep wrangler 4.0 6cyl ax-15 tranny np 231 transfer caseYou currently have 0 posts. Congenital Heart Disease is a reality for me, BOTH of my children have it.Then I realized it was a 4 L. Finished engine rebuild. Runs beautifully.Tons of information out there and an easy swap IMHO. zmanPersonally, I would NEVER install a critical component such as a tranny or TC or engine into my vehicle unless I personally had it rebuilt, OR if I knew for a fact that it had been rebuilt or was in excellent condition. I just HATE workin' on my back!!! Good luck, as zman said, there's a ton of info out there, do the search, you'll find it. And fill out that profile!Is there a way to work around it?Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below. Note that passwords are case-sensitive. Click here for.